Who Knew Relaxation was such hard work?

Its veering between insanely hot and strangely chilly here in trivandrum, (due to bizzare rainy and shiny weather as the monsoon comes to the tail end) and its been nearly 2 weeks since I came here for my mandatory period of R&R. 

I decided to sign up for one of those Ayurvedic detox programs, as part of the 'relaxation' game plan, and this has been surprisingly hard work. My day is been packed with massages from 7.30am to 8pm, after which I literally stumble to my uncle's home at night and collapse. I nearly backed out after my first massage, they are really painful, and I have an entire array of bruises from all the plomelling they gave me in usual 'stiff' places- i.e back, shoulders etc. etc. But the evening dhaara sessions (the one where they drip a mixture of herbs and water on your forehead) make up for the pain.

 The only thing I really miss is using the computer.  The ayurvedic experts mandated a strict no 'straining the eyes' policy as part of the 'relaxation package' (very evil in my opinion), so no computers, no television and no books. I'm breaking some rules here but 'I cannot tahan already la'. ;)
 
I'm breaking the rules in other ways too. I've been sneaking in The Hindu (a popular english language daily) and reading it religiously everyday. Its one of the newspapers that's so full of pompous windbaggery and a writing style that belongs in the previous century. It takes me the entire day to work out the complex and over-flowery writing styly, but the strange upside to all of this is that I know more than I ever wanted about Indian commodity prices, retailers fleecing consumers, the crazy monsoon rains, the union carbide disaster and other Indian things.

When I'm not reading, and the weather is tolerable, I'm out with my cheap camera, photographing the unfolding Onam season in Kerala. I'm still processing the photographs but I'll put them up when I have another moment of rebellion.

Now I have to run. My evening dhaara is waiting. :)

~deviousDiv

My NYC Reflections- A (Not So) Dysfunctional View

OK I agree it has been a while since my last update and for that I do apologize. Writing my reflections about New York City, without starting with the sentence, “Frankly, NYC wasn’t impressive, and in too many ways a major let down; the dirt, the smoke, the crowd and the prices were depressing” was a far more daunting task than I had anticipated.

The fault lies with my overambitious desire to cover it all. I dutifully visited key neighborhoods, took a trip on the subway’s iconic No. 4 train, got off at grand central station and tried to admire it. I walked down the crowded and filthy Times Square, tried to muster enthusiasm for Madison Square Garden, and the rather mouldy looking statue of Liberty. I walked down the newly gentrified SoHo, with its endless line familiar generic shops and what seemed like 50 starbucks. I stood outside NYU. I visited chi-chi restaurants like Nobu (really overpriced Japanese food) and bought over-salty pretzels (enough to make your lips burn) from a street vendor. I think the final straw was rattling along the Brooklyn bridge one rainy afternoon. Engineering marvel my arse 

That’s when I threw out the travel guide and went went "Tip Whoring"; something I should have done a long time ago, given that I staying with my cousin in an apartment in the downtown area.

On the 4th morning, I walked down the rather messy side lanes near my cousin’s matchbox apartment to the little Turkish café where the owner with his handlebar mustache let me try his gazpacho soup. I ended up buying a cup of that stuff everyday for the next 5 days for friendly Mr. Turkey’s travel tips. I also spent more time at the Dunkin Donuts at the street corner chatting with the Gujerati owner who gave me free donuts and travel tips. I bagged travel tips from well meaning strangers on the subway, from my cousins, my cousin’s gay boss and even the 2nd hand book seller where I bought cheap paperbacks for 50 cents.

Armed with these tips, I set out to explore New York City again, and not in the manner of a tourist pasha, but like regular a New Yorker digesting the city, one memory at a time. I stepped into St. Pauls cathedral, and sat at the pew  where a woman on a subway said she and her fireman husband came to pray and heal after 9-11. I walked into a kooky little bookstore to buy Shakespeare manga comics, on the advise of a brilliant street thespian. I even had blood orange frozen margaritas at a fantastic Mexican bar/restaurant in the South Street Seaport following the advise of a bare-chested Abercrombie boy. 

Its tempting to ramble on in this fashion, but a list is more logical. So here are my favourite memories from the great city:

1. New York City at Twilight



Don’t berate me. I know the empire state is a tourist trap, but the tip to ‘go see it at twilight’ was given to me by my bookseller. He said I should have a handsome man with me, as it would promt him to propose. I cheekily asked the octogenarian if he would accompany me. After a quick laugh, I jotted it down in my trusty tips book, and went that evening at 6pm. I think the 1 hr queue was worth it no?

2. Malachy J. Murray



Arguably the best tour guide in NYC, this Irish American led the circle line cruise I decided to take acting on Mr. Patil’s advise. (The Dunkin Donut man). If you’re in NYC for the first time, and have a tight budget, time to kill and want to see everything, the circle line is for you. When they say they’ll take you around the entire island, they’re not kidding. Malachy is as unique as his version of New York is, and his tours are loaded with brief nuggets of historical gems for every rock, building, and clump of weeds you’ll see along the way, but his brash wit and charm mean you'll forgive his nonstop chatter for its sheer entertainment value. I believe he's written a book about New York, which is available on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/MALACHY-MURRAYS-UNIQUE-NEW-YORK/dp/0979469104

3. The Old Croton Aqueduct

 

This was an “OMG” moment for me, and I half expected to see Edgar Allan Poe walking across the high bridge. Words from one of my personal favourites, The Imp of the Perverse," kept echoing through my overexcited mind. A Poe haunting perhaps? But that dark tale about the perversity of human nature that drives one to commit horrifying acts must surely have been inspired in part by Poe's crossings of the High Bridge, which was at least a 100 feet above the water!

4. Bridge, Rock, Green & Graffiti



I’d like to think that this odd combination is NYC- part engineering marvel, part natural wonder, overflowing with pristine greenery with a pinch of rebel. I took this during the circle line cruise.

5. Columbia University’s C Rock

 

Apparently, the athletes of the Columbia University (dispute over whether it’s the rowing team or the climbing team) maintain the "C Rock", a large Columbia varsity "C" painted on a rock face along the tracks used by Metro-North Railroad. I find it hilarious because I pictured a dear friend of mine hanging on that rock face doing a touch up. :P

6. GED Funding Protest



The immigrants were out in full force, to protest and fight for what they believe is their basic right. And because I am brown, I was invited to join the protest. I pretended to be a journalist, and was allowed as many pictures as I wanted. I also went out for a coffee with the protest leader, and we discussed racism around the world. I assured her that open dialogue and a willingness to accept there’s a problem puts America miles ahead of my part of the world. She sympathized.

7. The Time Travelling Jazz Singer



Isn’t she pretty? She was the singer of an amazing Jazz band at the Garage Restaurant and Cafe along Greenwich. This timeless diva had a whispery voice that was as smooth and husky as the finest Single malt. Too bad photographs can’t capture voices.

8. The Multi-Colored Buildings along E25 Street.

 

This is nothing special, but this row of  sepia toned brick and concrete buildings along E25 street was where I first discerned the city’s soul, a feeling I would define with Orhan Pamuk's words as a ‘collective nostalgia for the vanishing, crumbling past’. Since I had the epiphany here, it had to be photographed for posterity. Followed by an ice-cold beer to celebrate at the bar I was standing outside while taking this photograph.

9. The Pepsi Cola Sign- taken from the Circle Line Cruise

 

I openly admit to being a fan of Julie/Julia, the book and the movie. (Even though its graphic descriptions put me off eating for a while). I squinted hard at the sign, with the vain hope of catching either Amy Adams, or Julie Powell walking by.  The iconic glass bottle also brought back happy childhood memories of chugging ice cold pepsi cola with my cousins during family vacations.

10. Grand Old Hotel- name not important.

 

This was one of the many over the top and ostentatious buildings that one encounters in the city. It stood out, because it was being overshadowed by a non-descript brick building across the street. The play of light and shadow gave this building a sinister cast, and in a flight of fancy, I half hoped Batman would jump out of one of the shadowed windows. 

11. A New Jersey Sunset.

 

This isn’t exactly New York city, but I was on my way out of the city to visit my aunty in New Jersey. While traveling along the highway, I was treated to this magnificent sunset. Like everything else American, it was over-the-top. Those yellows are no camera trick.

In a nutshell, NYC is a city of contradictions. Gritty and Glamorous. Secular and Devout. Antique and Brand New. It was overwhelming, with its magnificent churches, opulent skyscrapers, plethora of parks standing side by side with horrible traffic jams, narrow, potholed streets, and a subway system that hasn’t been cleaned in a 100 years. I hated her filth and crumbling exterior, but I loved her heart. I loved the brisk scent of hope, that underlay the city’s signature perfume of exhaust fumes, stale subway air, and something frying. It was a city to fall in love with, and fall in love in.

I had the best time of my life, and I definitely want to go back.  Do you want to join me?

~deviousDiv

PS: I’m posting this from India, where I’m enjoying a long overdue period of R&R. The photographs are all mine, so if you want to use them, drop me an email so I can mail you the higher resolution images.